A few months ago, I learned about the South African food writer Dorah Sitole (1953-2021). Unfortunately my first time hearing of her was in her obituary, as she died of covid last January. She was very much admired as a leader in African food writing, but I believe little known outside of her native country. According to one admirer: “Dorah Sitole was not only an icon of the South African culinary landscape but was a pioneer in popularising traditional and contemporary African cooking and cuisine in a broader context; she was also a lovely, kind and deeply generous person. We shall miss her terribly.” Another said: “Dorah paved the way for a whole new generation of black female chefs in South Africa, and will always be remembered as a cultural pioneer." (source)
When I learned about Dorah Sitole and her accomplishments, I determined that I would find one of her books. This week, finally, I have obtained her book Cape to Cairo: A Taste of Africa, published in 1999. The book reflects what she learned during a trip to 19 African countries where she interviewed cooks and chefs about recipes, ingredients, and food ways. Writer Ishay Govender summarized Sitole's accomplishment: "Until this point, no other South African Black writer had been granted a platform to share the African gastronomic experience in the manner in which Sitole did – be it delele (okra) and mopane worm stew or jollof rice and Ghanaian goat-meat soup served with fufu." (source)
The book looks fascinating, describing the many and widely varied cuisines from the entire African continent. I believe that very few books have offered detailed recipes from these areas, but have tended to generalize as if the huge continent were a single culture -- which it most definitely is not! In addition, the book is illustrated with spectacular photos of the landscapes and of the foods that are described.
Will I make any of the dishes that are included in the book? It's possible, though many of them require ingredients that are utterly unobtainable in the US, as you can see from the two sample pages above. In some of the African regions, game animals are utilized that include some rather starling choices such as zebra and impala. Many African vegetables, both wild and cultivated, include leaves, tubers, and fruits that are unknown here. However, I find it fascinating to read the recipes, and I might try some of the chicken recipes.
Review © 2021 mae sander.
10 comments:
Dommage qu'il ne soit pas traduit en français.
I had not heard of Dorah Sitole -- thanks for the intro. Although it's sad she's no longer with us. Agree it would be really hard to cook some of her recipes, but it'd be fun to read them!
I'd love to try foods like these in a restaurant, but I'm thinking it'd be beyond me to make them at home.
Well, this is the first time I've heard of you, so thank you for the introduction. I don't think I'd be cooking these but many would be interesting to try.
Good Lord, recipes for Zebra meat? Now, that's a cookbook! Cool find, Mae!
Even for me, some of the ingredients are difficult to find. I would not eat zebra, that's for sure.
I was shocked to read zebra steaks. I guess they are about the same as deer or cows in that they are hooved animals. I am not sure I would want to read this book, because I am an animal lover. However, it sounds interesting from a historically gastronomic aspect.
Many people here do tend to think of Africa as one country which, as you say, it definitely is not. -- I hadn't thought about that in the context of food before . The book looks like wonderful reading (and dreaming). I am sorry about the author -- what a shame. We have lost too many.
We used to have international food festivals pre-COVID. Miss that!
Mae,
Sounds like a fascinating book. Of course I was interested in it as soon as I noticed Cairo in the title. With a husband from Cairo, Egypt, and his mother who is an amazing cook, I have learned to really love Egyptian food. I'm not as familiar with African cuisine, but it sounds like I'd like to know more.
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