Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us by Michael Moss provides an overwhelming insight: big food companies know much more about how humans choose food than anyone else (including academics). If any people still think that humans "intuitively" or "instinctively" choose to eat the foods that their bodies actually "need" -- they should read Salt Sugar Fat! Potato chips and soda aren't nature's most perfect foods, but they are carefully designed with the purpose of meeting a human's strongest cravings for (yes) salt, fat, and sugar. So are lots of other processed foods. Broccoli, we just aren't that into you. Our instincts stink. It's a good read with lots of data.
I was thinking about several other books with coordinating insights about the issue of how humans choose what to eat, and how unlikely it is that our instinctive choices can help us achieve healthy lives, desirable body weight, and avoidance of nutritional maladies like diabetes. Also how hard it is to achieve these ends through rational self-control. Or government intervention. Or medical treatment.
First, I thought about a book that's really not about food at all: Thinking, Fast and Slow by Daniel Kahneman. Decision making in the many humans the author has observed is far from the calm rational process that many people believe in -- especially diet prescribers! The last thing you heard, a major event that impressed you, or someone who was manipulating you have a much higher impact on your conclusions than you would prefer to believe. Overlay this with the evidence of direct manipulation of your love of certain flavors in Salt Sugar Fat. OOPS.
Next, a very frequently quoted book: Mindless Eating by Brian Wansink PhD. As I read it a few years ago, I constantly thought about how the food industry had already learned what Wansink's research revealed. They kept their insights mainly secret and used their knowledge to make people eat more. In contrast Wansink presented his research studies as a set of insights that could help one create a strategy to eat less. Yes, we suck up more calories if there's a huge bowl of M&Ms than if there's a smaller one. We'll eat much more from a self-refilling bowl of soup because our eyes are fooling us. If someone takes away the piles of bones, people will eat more chicken wings because they lose track of what they are doing. Wansink's experiments are cited (often out of context) frequently, but reading the book really shows you how little control you have even when you think you're paying attention.
The book Why Some Like it Hot by Gary Paul Nabhan is about evolution (though not going all the way back to our prehistoric ancestors and not particularly applicable to most urban westerners). He discusses traditional foods in some relatively isolated areas where the native people over time adapted to the available food supplies, and he describes how a change, usually a forced change, to a western and modern diet has harmed them, especially by causing obesity and diabetes. Among others, he explores the foods of the eastern Mediterranean island of Crete, Native American foods in parts of the southwestern US, and native foods of Hawaii. He describes some efforts where people have reintroduced foods of their recent ancestors. His research theme: "how food reflects the interaction between biological and cultural diversity." (p. 2)
The Omnivore's Dilemma by Michael Pollan tackles similar themes from a different angle. His exploration of what the term "organic" has meant at various times offers an alternative view of what people think they are doing when they think they are rational.
Science applied to nutrition is not new. Perfection Salad by Laura Shapiro describes the well-meaning but often misguided efforts of the late 19th and early 20th century women to create the new discipline that they titled "home economics." Shapiro illustrates how their efforts paved the way for mass-produced and highly processed foods to be accepted into the American diet, and how the longest-lasting achievement was pathetic "home-ec" classes that may recently have at last disappeared from junior high schools. (I sure remember Miss Gordon, our home-ec teacher!) These well-meaning advocates of scientific nutrition 100 years ago or so also tried to change lower class eating habits in American cities, especially among the very poor and immigrant communities, but people preferred to eat what they liked, not what someone told them was good for them. One amusing thing: how the same type of reasoning is going on now, and probably has never stopped since the era covered by the book.
When I read libertarian arguments about the freedom to choose whether to drink a 32 ounce soda or not, I wonder about the rationality of the writer. When I read about people who think they are on a "paleolithic" diet because their food choices become so rational and evolutionarily sensible, I suspect that they don't know about actual food history. Same for the fad for "intuitive eating" and a number of other claims about how our bodies can guide us to health. (Against Autonomy: Justifying Coercive Paternalism by Sarah Conly as reviewed here sounds as if it has a lot of relevant material, but I haven't read it yet.)
Showing posts with label Brian Wansink. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Brian Wansink. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 09, 2013
Monday, August 09, 2010
Chicago

We spent 24 hours in Chicago this weekend, driving back and forth from Michigan. Saturday afternoon, we took our time looking at many art works at the Chicago Art Institute. Meanwhile, outside, a rock festival was raging. I remembered many of the art works in the museum from earlier trips, especially the famous icons of Impressionism, but the above image by Van Gough impressed me enormously, and I didn't really recall seeing these "Drinkers" before.
This one also impressed me:

This is a section of a painting of a feast by El Greco. The food on the table looks mighty small for a feast. I wonder how that relates to the recent finding by Brian Wansink that the amount of food in paintings of the Last Supper has constantly increased in major depictions over the years. That result: "portion size, plate size, and bread size increased dramatically over the last one thousand years." (See this.)
Later, I'll add more about the trip, especially about what we ate and our visit to the Field Museum of Natural History.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Food Bookshelves, Second Part

- Delos, The World of Cognac
- Parker, Wine Buyer’s Guide
- Larousse, Wines and Vineyards of France
- Parker, Wine Buyer’s Guide
- Wine Album (filled in with wine we drank long ago)
- Johnson, Pocket Encyclopedia of Wine, 2000
- Kingsolver, Animal, Vegetable, Miracle
- Water, Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook
- Spang, The Invention of the Restaurant
- Laszlo, Citrus
- Wechsberg, Blue Trout and Black Truffles
- Clark, The Oysters of Locmariaquer
- Corson, The Secret Life of Lobsters
- Bestor, Tsukiji
- Six Haggadahs
- Reichl, The Gourmet Cookbook

- Lying on its side: Lee, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles
- Standage, A History of the World in Six Glasses
- Wansink, Mindless Eating
- Nabhan, Why Some Like it Hot
- Lee, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles (proof copy)
- Pollan, In Defense of Food
- Pollan, The Botany of Desire
- Pollan, The Omnivore’s Dilemma
- Jordan & Brady, eds, The World is a Kitchen
- Barnes, The Pedant in the Kitchen
- Simieti & Grammatico, Bitter Almonds
- Ortiz, The Book of Latin American Cooking
- Moosewood Collective, Moosewood Restaurant Cooks at Home
- Palermo Tourist Bureau, Palermo Provincia: Cooking History and Traditions
- Hsiung, Chinese Regional Cooking
- Roden, A Book of Middle Eastern Food
- Stacey, Consumed: Why Americans Love, Hate, and Fear Food
- Hobhouse, Seeds of Change
- Sahni, Moghul Microwave
- Jaffrey, World Vegetarian
- Singh, Indian Cookery
- McGee, On Food and Cooking
- Algar, Classical Turkish Cooking
- Yazgan, ed. Specialities of Turkish Cuisine
- Riley, Painters & Food: Renaissance Recipes
- Barry, Old English Recipes, Classic Recipes from English Country Houses

And on this shelf:
- In front: Hannah Montana Valentine from Miriam
- Sideways: Westervelt, Hawaiian Legends of Volcanoes
- Argyriou et. al. eds: The 200 years History of Australian Cooking
- Isaacs, Bush Food: Aboriginal Food and Herbal Medicine
- Yood, Feasting: A Celebration of Food in Art
- Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food
- Child, Baking with Julia
- Child, Julia Child & Company
- Child et. al. Mastering the Art of French Cooking
- Child et. al. Mastering the Art of French Cooking Vol. Two
- Child, From Julia Child’s Kitchen
- Child, My Life in France
- Child, The French Chef Cookbook
- Johnston, The Cuisine of the Sun
- Beck, Simca’s Cuisine
- Oliver, La Cuisine
- Toklas, The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook
- Poilane, Guide de l’amateur de Pain
- Clayton, The Breads of France
- Claiborne, The New York Times Cookbook
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
News of the Fat
From the NY Times, a suggestion that obesity might be connected to prosperity:
The article continues with a number of statistical measures of the obesity-related diseases that declined during the crisis, but notes: "As more food became available, obesity increased to about 12 percent again by 2002." As we keep hearing, in one form or another, people just seem to eat more when they can, and that makes them fat.
I also wanted to mention that Brian Wansink, author of Mindless Eating, a book I've mentioned several times, received an Ig Nobel prize for his invention of the bottomless soup bowl! What a great choice. From the CNN article:
Cuba’s economic crisis in the 1990s had a silver lining, scientists are reporting: a decrease in the rates of obesity, diabetes, coronary heart disease and stroke.And no wonder. Average calorie consumption dropped more than a third, to 1,863 calories a day in 2002 from 2,899 in 1989. Cubans also exercised more, giving up cars for walking and bicycling.from Nutrition: An Up Side to Hard Times by NICHOLAS BAKALAR, October 9, 2007.
The article continues with a number of statistical measures of the obesity-related diseases that declined during the crisis, but notes: "As more food became available, obesity increased to about 12 percent again by 2002." As we keep hearing, in one form or another, people just seem to eat more when they can, and that makes them fat.
I also wanted to mention that Brian Wansink, author of Mindless Eating, a book I've mentioned several times, received an Ig Nobel prize for his invention of the bottomless soup bowl! What a great choice. From the CNN article:
The Ig Nobel for nutrition went to a concept that sounds like a restaurant marketing ploy: a bottomless bowl of soup.
Cornell University professor Brian Wansink used bowls rigged with tubes that slowly and imperceptibly refilled them with creamy tomato soup to see if test subjects ate more than they would with a regular bowl.
"We found that people eating from the refillable soup bowls ended up eating 73 percent more soup, but they never rated themselves as any more full," said Wansink, a professor of consumer behavior and applied economics. "They thought 'How can I be full when the bowl has so much left in it?' "
His conclusion: "We as Americans judge satiety with our eyes, not with our stomachs."
Friday, May 04, 2007
Mindless Eating in the News
In the New York Times: a new article about Brian Wansink's book Mindless Eating, which I discussed a few days ago. See: Your Plate Is Bigger Than Your Stomach by DAVID LEONHARDT. The article discusses to some extent how this book fits into modern economics trends. Writes Leonhardt:
Over the last couple of decades, a new field of economics, behavioral economics, has emerged to explain why people so often act in ways that are contrary to their own interests. They overeat, smoke, forget to take their medicine and don’t save enough for retirement, saying all the while that they wish they could change. Figuring out how to turn these wishes into action could put a dent in some big social problems.
The sidebar includes references to several interesting websites, including:
- Brian Wansink's Web site which includes a blog
- An autobiography of Nobelist - behavioral scientist Daniel Kahneman.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
Yes, they are fooling us
In today's L.A.Times, an article about food choices in chain restaurants:
Here is the core finding of this article:
By Mary Engel
When more than 500 Californians were shown lists of four dishes served at chain restaurants and asked to identify the one with the most fat or the least salt or the fewest or most calories, 68% of them chose the wrong item every time.
Just 27% got only one of the multiple-choice questions right. And not one of the 523 Californians who were surveyed aced the test.
The four-question quiz — which focused on food served at Denny's, Chili's, McDonald's and Romano's Macaroni Grill — was commissioned by the California Center for Public Health Advocacy, a nonprofit group based in Davis, and conducted by Field Research Corp. The findings were the same, regardless of education or income levels.
The Center that did this quiz is lobbying for a law to force chain restaurants to provide nutritional information on their menus. The California Restaurant Association opposes such a law (well, duh). It's interesting that the results of the quiz look as if they are pretty much due to guessing, since each multiple-choice question had 4 possible answers.
The article was very careful in its wording about restaurants making a pretense of offering healthy options, when actually their recipes result in excesses if you eat one order of the food. They accepted the underlying assumption that people want to overeat so restaurants should provide them with what they want.
Whatever you want to say about people being happy to be fooled, or happy to have cooperation in fooling themselves, it seems to me that disclosure of the nutrition information would allow these "people" to decide for themselves whether to be fooled. My own reaction is that the restaurants are engaged in a kind of calculated deception, maybe even fraud -- and they blame the victim.

In the book Mindless Eating, the author Brian Wansink demonstrates over and over again that people, making something like 200 food choices a day, are incredibly susceptible to a variety of suggestions, illusions, and inabilities to analyze food before they eat it. It's not their fault, Wansink shows. The most memorable areas of research he reported were those demonstrating that people almost never really grasp how much they have eaten. “Stomachs can’t count” is a phrase that comes up over and over. People served larger quantities also generally ate more – and didn’t realize it. Perception of portion size is created by clues that you don’t control and rarely notice. So excessive calorie, fat, and sodium content per order confuses even well-intentioned diners.
Viewed in the context of the book's findings, I think the restaurant designers have done the same research with the opposite motive: Wansink wants to help readers eat mindfully. The fast food industry wants us to eat eat eat and come back for more. They take no responsibility for the frailties of the humans they manipulate. To quote Wansink: “Who really overeats – the guy who knows he’s eating 710 calories at McDonald’s or the woman who thinks she’s eating a 350-calorie Subway meal that actually contains 500 calories?” (p. 206)
Quotes in the article give several reasons to pass a law requiring full disclosure. The nutrition info for most fast food is available online or on tray liners that come with an already-ordered meal, but the Center representative interviewed in the article says: "I'm not sure what the industry expects. ... That we'll take our laptop to the restaurant?" Possibly the disclosure of some of the more outrageous calorie counts would even encourage restaurants to reformulate some of the menu items, advocates hope.
My consumption of food in chain restaurants is infrequent (though I'm having lunch at Panera later today). I try to stay on top of the misguided idea that a salad is always healthy or that turkey is always low-fat. But I'd really appreciate if this law were nation-wide, especially on the turnpike where I have no other choices than fast food.
Saturday, April 14, 2007
Reading about food
I've been reading or re-reading several food books. Here are some quotations that I found especially interesting.
“Your stomach can’t count…. and what’s more, we get no help from our attention or our memory. We don’t register how many pieces of candy we had from the communal candy dish at work, and whether we ate 20 French fries or 30….It’s not necessarily that we’re trying to fool ourselves, or that we’re living in blissful, snug-clothing denial. We’re just not designed to accurately keep track of how much we’ve consumed.” (Brian Wansink, Mindless Eating, New York, 2006, p. 36-37)
“Increasing the variety of a food increases how much everyone eats. … what would happen if we gave two people huge bowls of M&M’s to snack on while they watched a video? The only difference between the bowls is that one has 7 colors of M&M’s and the other has 10 colors. Most people know that all M&M’s taste alike… The person with 10 colors will eat 43 more M&M’s (99 versus 56) than his friend with 7 colors.” (Wansink, p. 73-74)
“This reverence for, or indeed, worship of bread is strange to us, being accustomed to a post-industrial diet wich is unique in lacking a basic carbohydrate staple. To the Aztecs, the Maya, the Inca, and the Europeans of the sixteenth century bread was the all-important carbohydrate source the lack of which meant famine and the presence of which, even alone, meant that one was fed and contented…. Modern ignorance of this concept of the basic carbohydrate staple has led to numerous misinterpretations of the sources [about pre-Columbian diet] which would have been impossible had the reader been brought up in a society which depended on a single staff of life.” (Sophie D. Coe, America’s First Cuisines, Austin, 1994, p.9)
“There is compelling evidence in Jeffrey Steingarten's iconoclastic book The Man Who Ate Everything that the more tedious and unvariegated each plateful is, the less likely we are to overeat. But really, who wants to be bored as a way of avoiding obesity?” (Zoe Williams, “Chuck out the spag bol!”, The Guardian online, Tuesday March 20, 2007)
“Yes, genes matter, but diverse diets and exercize patterns matter just as much. And when the positive interaction among all three of these factors is reinforced by strong cultural traditions, our physical health improves, as does our determination to keep it that way…. When the persistence of traditional foods is more widely recognized as a source of both cultural pride and as an aid to physical survival and well-being, I doubt that many Native American communities will abandon what many of them feel to be a true gift from their Creator.” (Gary Paul Nabhan, Why Some Like It Hot: Food, Genes, and Cultural Diversity, Washington, D.C, 2004, p. 185)
The three books treat a variety of food topics: history, eating behavior, detailed interaction of genes and diet, and social contexts. Each one offers a fascinating look into its author's area of expertise. Each one (as well as the Guardian article) stresses the contrast between modern urban life and the life of a variety of people in the past.
Sunday, November 19, 2006
Some books I want to read or cook from
- The Pedant in the Kitchen by Julian Barnes
- The Soul of a New Cuisine: A Discovery of the Foods and Flavors of Africa by Marcus Samuelsson
- Climbing the Mango Trees: A Memoir of a Childhood in India by Madhur Jaffrey
- Arabesque: A Taste of Morocco, Turkey, and Lebanon by Claudia Roden
- Havana Salsa: Stories and Recipes by Viviana Carballo
- The World Is a Kitchen: Cooking Your Way Through Culture by Michele Anna Jordan and Susan Brady
- Mindless Eating: Why We Eat More Than We Think by Brian Wansink
- Why Some Like It Hot: Food, Genes, and Cultural Diversity by Gary Paul Nabhan
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Posted in 2006
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