Showing posts with label Kauai 2016. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kauai 2016. Show all posts

Sunday, August 21, 2016

New Guinea Mask

Our new mask, made in New Guinea.
We don't have detailed information about its tribal origins.
We have hung the new mask with our African masks.
This store in Hanalei on Kauai has a fabulous collection of carvings and other artifacts from New Guinea, the Solomon
Islands, New Zealand, and other parts of the South Pacific. The owners travel to purchase most of the merchandise.
They obtained our mask from a collector who bought it in New Guinea.

Inside the shop




Saturday, August 20, 2016

Goodbye to Kauai

A waterspout near Poipu Beach, Kauai.
Home again: we arrived yesterday after a red-eye from Kauai to Detroit via Los Angeles, around 15 hours door to door. What a beautiful island! Hawaii is known for rainbows and waterfalls. I've already posted some rainbows, now it's time for water action. First, the waterspout: video below.

MVI_3124

The waterfall at the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.
Opaekaa Falls
Wailua Falls (the rainbow in the falls was very beautiful).
Closeup of Wailua Falls
Waterfall along the Na Pali coast.

Friday, August 19, 2016

Kauai Chickens

A rooster crowing at Poipu beach on Kauai.
Can you eat the chickens that roam the beaches, parks, parking lots, front and back yards, and everywhere else in Kauai? Yes, said our bird guide Jim Denny. You take a chicken and a perfectly round lava rock; put them in a pot and bring to a boil. Keep the pot boiling until the rock is tender.


Kauai's chickens are closely related to the junglefowl native to Africa and Asia.
Of course we saw many more interesting birds than these chickens -- including rare native species that may be competing for food or territory. But it's hard not to be intrigued by these feral chickens. We had heard that they were descended from a combination of introduced chickens: those of the early native humans who brought them in their outrigger canoes as long as 1000 years ago, and more recent introductions of domestic European barnyard chickens. Evidently the large numbers of birds were a result of escapees whose cages were destroyed during the devastating hurricane Iniki in 1992.



We were amused by all the chickens and their chicks. Also like the other tourists I couldn't resist taking photos, which I've selected for this post. Intrigued, I looked up the natural history of these half-wild half-domestic birds. In Modern Farmer magazine I read:
"The Hawaiian islands, incredibly remote from any continent, were largely absent of large animals prior to Polynesian settlement in (this is disputed) somewhere between 300 and 800 AD. There were no mammals, besides some bats, and the largest animals were some mid-sized birds. Most everything in Hawaii, geologically speaking, is new.... 
"Kauai is home to thousands of wild chickens, a particular variety that’s vibrant in plumage but of mixed value to the ecosystem of the island. They eat the venomous centipedes native to Kauai, a trait that people seem to like, but they have no natural predators besides pet cats and dogs, and the population is growing at an alarming rate." -- The Mystery Of Kauai’s Thousands Of Feral Chickens


What's known about the ancestors of the present-day feral chickens? Researchers at Michigan State are studying their DNA to try to understand their origins and also to gain insights about chickens everywhere. Most of the articles I found described this research along with general natural history of the Kauai chickens.

On the remotest beach where we sat, the chickens came right up to where I was sitting.

I found more natural history in the science journal Nature:
"... Kauai is teeming with feral chickens — free-ranging fowl related both to the domestic breeds that lay eggs or produce meat for supermarket shelves and to a more ancestral lineage imported to Hawaii hundreds of years ago. 
"These modern hybrids inhabit almost every corner of the island, from rugged chasms to KFC car parks. They have clucked their way into local lore and culture and are both beloved and reviled by Kauai's human occupants. Biologists, however, see in the feral animals an improbable experiment in evolution: what happens when chickens go wild? 
"The process of domestication has moulded animals and their genomes to thrive in human environments. Traits that ensure survival in the wild often give way to qualities that benefit humans, such as docility and fast growth. Feralization looks, on its surface, like domestication in reverse. But closer inspection suggests that the chickens of Kauai are evolving into something quite different from their wild predecessors, gaining some traits that reflect that past, but maintaining others that had been selected by humans. In this way, they are similar to other populations of animals, including dogs, pigs and sheep, that have broken free of captivity and flourished." -- When chickens go wild 


An article in the New York Times described more about research into the Kauai chickens:
"Fossils of chickens dating to the Polynesian era, long before Capt. James Cook, the British explorer, arrived in Hawaii in 1778, have been dug up in a cave on Kauai. From the fossils, scientists led by Alan Cooper, director of the Australian Center for Ancient DNA at the University of Adelaide, have extracted mitochondrial chicken DNA, part of the data they used to reconstruct the paths of Polynesian expansion. ... 
"In the new research, the scientists sequenced DNA from 23 chickens from eight regions of Kauai. As the influx of farm chickens encountered the older Polynesian red junglefowl population, Dr. Gering [the researcher] wondered, 'How is that population evolving?'
"The mitochondrial DNA of a few of the chickens matched that of the Polynesian chicken bones from the Kauai cave; more had the DNA of recent European breeds. Not all of the feral chickens had the mutated thyroid hormone receptor of modern domesticated chickens. The birds’ appearances also indicate that ancient traits persist. Some look as if they have just walked off the farm, but many others, with burnt orange and black plumage for the males, look like red junglefowl from the forests of India or Vietnam." -- "In Hawaii, Chickens Gone Wild" 
While I couldn't resist taking photos, I wasn't in the least tempted by the tee shirts, magnets, and many other touristy items with cartoon roosters or double-meaning slogans about Kauai's chickens. What has me fascinated is the research about their behavior and their history.

On Poipu Beach

A small toad hopped across my beach towel and landed in the pine needle debris next to me.
Pine trees provide delicious shade on Poipu Beach.
Because it's across the street from the apartment that
we're renting, we've spent lots of time there.
Every now and then someone comments on my purple Keens. Most of the comments are from
people who also bought themselves a pair on sale at amazon.com.
I'm timing this post to appear during our long trip from Kauai to Detroit airport via Los Angeles tonight.

Thursday, August 18, 2016

Loco Moco at Last

This is loco moco, a Hawaiian special plate lunch including hamburger, rice, gravy, and a fried egg.
For years I've been saying that I wanted to try this local comfort food, invented here.
My loco moco today at Anuinui Cafe was a bit fancied up -- it included mushrooms, and the hamburger was
crumbled to bite-size instead of a patty. I enjoyed it. To the left you can see my lilikoi iced tea.
I haven't been neglecting my favorite flavor lilikoi. Here's a lilikoi
cheesecake from earlier this week. Lilikoi, as I've mentioned, is Hawaiian for passion fruit.
At Merriman's Hamburger and Pizza place I had another lilikoi mousse for lunch Tuesday.
I also had a scoop of lilikoi sorbet after lunch today.
For my main course at Merriman's I had this salad.
As we are getting ready to leave, we're still enjoying the island flavors. I've had quite a few more helpings of fresh local fish at various restaurants, but the pictures would be a bit repetitive!

Wednesday, August 17, 2016

At the Kauai Culinary Market

Lots of vegetables.





You can see that the market is held in a shopping center. Some of the shops also display products outdoors.

Fruits: mangos, gaviota, papayas, lilikoi (passion fruit), and many others.

Happy Birthday, Len

Len wanted to scuba dive on his birthday, and he did it!


Ready to go down. Underwater videos are still to be processed!

Underwater Video

kauai-movie2
From Len's dive a couple of days ago. For all of his birding and underwater photos see his flickr page HERE.

Walking from Shipwreck Beach


Today we took a hike beginning at Shipwreck Beach around a mile from the apartment we're renting. We walked until we were in sight of Mahaulepu Beach where we visited on Sunday. The trail goes along the cliffs above the ocean, so it's quite spectacular. 

Vegetation on the cliffs is sometimes low succulents or brush and sometimes pines. Just inland is a huge golf course -- for one stretch, the cliff-side path crumbled into the ocean so the trail is on the golf course. Signs warn that some of the low brush is nesting grounds for wedge-tailed shearwaters, and that some of the rock structures are ancient Hawaiian sacred sites. So it's a fascinating walk.

This flock of Ne Ne (Hawaiian native ducks) was grazing among the vegetation covering the cliffs,
which I think is called Ohelo kai, and on the Big Island is sacred to the volcano goddess Pele.

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

The End of the Road


From a previous visit to Kauai, we remembered the nearly-deserted beach at the end of the road that goes through Princeville and Hanalei and ends up by the steep cliffs of the Napali coast. Yesterday we went there, found it as beautiful as ever, but were surprised at the huge number of people and at the cars that were circling around looking for a parking place!

The beach ends here, and the cliffs begin.
Near the road: a shallow sea-cave.


Monday, August 15, 2016

Mahaulepu Beach


Mahaulepu Beach is close to the perfect beach. Pine-covered sand dunes come right down to the water. Because it's accessible only by a fairly terrible dirt road or a long hike, it's not very crowded. When we were there yesterday, the waves were high but not scary, the sun was shining brightly, and it was beautiful.


A bit of sea glass in the pine needles.





Dinner at the Dolphin Restaurant: sushi made from fresh, local ahi. I also had a sushi roll with some of the ahi on top.