Tuesday, February 14, 2023

The National Geographic Venture

The National Geographic Venture was our home for one week in Baja California last week
on a Lindblad Expedition. We traveled down the east coast and up the west coast of Baja.


At sunrise, many passengers enjoy the light show from the bow of the ship.


At sunset in a beautiful anchorage one day, a local musical group performed on the sun deck.
One of the naturalist staff enjoys accompanying them.

In the ship’s dining room once, we had dinner with two naturalists, Carlos and Adrian,
who are both very knowledgeable about the wildlife and the history of Mexico.

The back of the ship, seen from the dock. The orange boat is a life boat.
The second balcony from the back belonged to our cabin.

Enjoying the sun on our balcony.


The view from the ship

  
Looking towards Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the Baja California peninsula.

The full moon was setting on our first morning onboard.

Late one afternoon, a very acrobatic whale was breaching off the end of the ship.
We spent quite a lot of time whale watching from the bow of the ship.

Zodiac excursions from the ship

After putting on a life vest and checking off our names on the On/Off Board, we and the other passengers
would walk down the stairway to the Zodiac boats to go to beaches or to cruise around and see wildlife.

On a Zodiac cruise.

A Zodiac tethered just below our balcony.

On one Zodiac cruise, we could see the Venture through a natural arch.
 
From the Zodiacs, we viewed a sea lion colony. Much of the coast of Baja is a protected nature reserve.
Thus, the Zodiac stays a safe distance to avoid disturbing the animals.


“Wet Landings” mean you wade to or from the Zodiac. Better roll up your pant legs!

Cruising on special whale-watching boats called “pangas”

In the two lagoons where breeding grey whales spend the winter months, the Mexican government allows
only a small number of boats to take passengers to see these extraordinarily friendly animals.



There is a theory that the whales are especially attracted to the sound of certain brands of outboard motor.

On the dock



One of our two days watching the breeding grounds of the whales was a two hour bus ride from the ship.
This is the dock where we took these small boats — the pangas.

Blog post © 2023 by mae sander

Monday, February 13, 2023

Beaches

As our ship, the National Geographic Venture, headed around the tip of Baja California, we stopped at a number of very beautiful beaches, where we were often the only humans. The long expanses of sand, the dunes, the birds, and other creatures are just wonderful!

Sand Dollar Beach



Everyone agreed that this beach had more sand dollars than we’ve seen on any beach elsewhere.





We walked across the dunes for around 20 minutes to
go from our landing spot to Sand Dollar Beach on the Pacific Ocean side.


Beach Picnic




S’mores of course!


Coyotes on the Beach

Our guide Carlos pointed out these coyotes that live on the dunes near a beach.



After a very interesting wildlife walk, Carlos sketched a whale on the beach.
 

Birds own the Mangrove Beaches







 

Photos © 2023 mae sander

Sunday, February 12, 2023

Street Art from our trip

 Our week in Baja California had many highlights, especially whales. We also visited a few small towns, where I saw quite a few murals, sidewalk decorations, hand-painted signs, and more. I’ve chosen a few of them for today — over time, I will post more wildlife and more art, but here are a few examples. I’m happy to say that our last flight brought us home at almost the time expected on our original schedule.


As we headed for airport security at LAX yesterday, I noticed this large mural.

Along the waterfront in the town of La Paz.

Near the dock in Lopez Mateos, a small town where we were about to embark for whale watching.

Along the Streets of La Paz and Lopez Mateos





The shadows of palm trees added to the effect of this mural.


A beer ad -- to share with Elizabeth and the bloggers who celebrate drinks!

Blog post © 2023 mae sander

Saturday, February 11, 2023

Waiting at the Airport

Our ship voyage on the Lindblad/National Geographic Venture took us  around the southern part of Baja California, including the Gulf of California (also called the Sea of Cortez) and the Pacific side of the peninsula. The fun is now over, and we are waiting at the airport for a flight to San Francisco followed by a flight to Michigan and home. Here are a couple of photos from our very successful whale watching excursion yesterday. I have many more photos and will document more of our trip later.

UPDATE: Our flight from Mexico to San Francisco was abruptly canceled by Alaska Air. (I’ll never willingly fly them again.) They flew us to LA instead, and we had to go through some stressful times to get on a flight back to Michigan from LA instead of San Francisco. Fortunately, a very helpful and competent Delta agent straightened out our ticket situation without our having to pay for a new ticket. As of now we are waiting in the LA airport, hoping that another disaster does not occur!

A mother gray whale with her calf, which we saw up very close. The baby came right up to our small
boat, and allowed one passenger to touch it. Then it swam under the boat, and when I reached out, 
it sprayed my hand! It was a wonderful end to our trip to look for whales.

Whale watching boats at the dock as we were about to board. We took two trips, each around an
hour and a half, and saw many whales!



From the port where we ended our ship voyage, we were driven over the mountains
to get to the airport— around 2 hours. We are just starting a very long day!

blog post © 2023 mae sander

The Map!

Friday, February 10, 2023

Last day of our trip

 


Yesterday the whales were coming right up to the little boats. We hope we’ll see more of the same today. We return to the US tomorrow, if all goes as planned!

Monday, February 06, 2023

Friday, February 03, 2023

Goodbye Winter

 

We flew away from the Detroit Airport at noon, headed for an overnight in San Francisco.

All went as planned. Our luggage arrived with us. We took the Sky Train to the airport hotel.
You can see the train from our hotel window, but the clouds keep us from seeing the hills.

Tomorrow another long flight and (if our luck continues) we’ll begin a new adventure. If we have an internet connection, I will write more tomorrow. Or maybe I’ll be offline for a while.


Thursday, February 02, 2023

Shadows

 

It’s a cold sunny day in my backyard. If a groundhog showed up, his shadow would be very visible.

In Pennsylvania, Punxutawny Phil did see his shadow, and is hibernating for 6 more weeks, so they say.
And in real life, deep cold temperatures are predicted for the Northeast.

In Howell, Michigan, Woody the Woodchuck (i.e. Groundhog) didn’t pay any attention to her
shadow, and stayed outside. So we should have an early spring, according to this tradition.
Realistically, it’s never spring here in February! 

Wednesday, February 01, 2023

"The Books of Jacob"

 


Olga Tokarczuk won the Nobel Prize, and her novel, The Books of Jacob, was mentioned by the prize committee as one of her great accomplishments. The subject of this historical novel is the Jewish “Messiah” Jacob Frank, who lived from 1726 to 1791. It’s a wide-ranging novel, almost 1000 pages long, with an enormous number of vividly presented characters of many ethnicities, especially Jews. A large number of these characters change their names part way through the book, adding to the challenge of reading. 

Also challenging to read: the main characters constantly travel to a large number of places in Poland and the Ottoman Empire of that time, and meet many political leaders. Maybe I’m wrong, but I wonder if this is another politically motivated Nobel prize winner, as evidently some of the Polish authorities would prefer not to be reminded about Jewish history in Poland.

Most of the events in this novel are realistic, but there are also examples of supernatural occurrences, such as Jacob Frank's head emitting a mysterious light, or various characters who can predict the future. Throughout the novel we hear of a woman named Yente, a relative of the characters in Frank's life; Yente has swallowed an amulet that gives her eternal life and the ability to float over the landscape and see it from above. As she lives longer and longer, watching her descendants and their associates, her undead body somehow moves to a cave where she remains until she's joined there in 1942 by Jews fleeing the Holocaust. 

The historic Jacob Frank was acclaimed as a Messiah; he attracted many followers, and was seen as a successor to the earlier failed Jewish Messiah Sabbatai Tzvi (1626-1676). Both Tzvi and Frank had outsize influence among the Jewish communities in Europe — this part of history is little known. Under Frank's influence many Jews repudiated traditional Jewish rituals and laws, and converted to the Catholic faith in a set of events that has remained rather obscure. Actually, both Polish and Jewish history are somewhat obscure areas of European history. Historians that dealt with Frank and his Messianic claims (to the best of my knowledge) have mainly been Jewish scholars specializing in Jewish history. This makes this fictional treatment quite unusual!

Here’s the subtitle, encompassing the multiplicity of plots and locales:

The style of writing in this long narrative is like a fable. It reminds me of Grimm's Fairy Tales or other 19th century folk stories, a bit simple. This simplicity is deceptive: it's a long tough read with many plot lines. The wide-ranging lives of the characters takes place in mostly unfamiliar towns and cities of Poland and the Ottomans, in an atmosphere that seems alien from modernity, but the author does occasionally remind us that despite the distant setting, it’s the age of Benjamin Franklin, Mozart, Moses Mendelssohn, and in general the Enlightenment. The author also reminds us that the settings are very exotic, and includes many vivid descriptions of bazaars, rich fabrics, and colorful and unusual clothing.

Mainly, it’s a novel of the details of the lives of Jacob Frank, his followers, and some others — their love lives and marriages, how they earn money and how they lose it, the food they eat when rich and when poor -- there's lots of food described in mouth-watering detail! The book depicts experiences of hardships and the times of wealth reflected by where they live and revealed by choices of clothing that show their status as well as their religion. It documents the religious fervor that gripped these followers, and how they agreed to Jacob’s demand for their  mass conversion from their traditional Jewish religion to the Catholic religion. The converts tried to adjust to being mainstream Christians instead of marginal Jews, a conflicted and complex social effort that only succeeded with the next generation.

The reviewer in the Guardian offers this summary:

"The Books of Jacob by the Nobel laureate Olga Tokarczuk is an epic chronicle of the life and times of Frank and his followers. Over a thousand pages long, dense with history and incident, it is vast enough to make this reader’s knees buckle. As crowded as a Bruegel painting, it moves from mud-bound Galician villages to Greek monasteries, 18th-century Warsaw, Brno, Vienna and the luxurious surroundings of the Habsburg court. It takes in esoteric theological arguments, diplomatic history, alchemy, Kabbalah, Polish antisemitism and the philosophical roots of the Enlightenment. It is a dauntingly ambitious piece of work and one of the responses it arouses is just plain amazement at the patience and tenacity that have gone into its construction." (source)
 

A Comet Foretells the Future 

A comet was in the sky during one year of the novel’s timeframe: very frightening to people back then.
Right now, February 2023, a comet is in the sky: my brother took this photo of it.
A comet, I think, is longer seen as an omen.

About the comet that "appeared in the sky on March 13, 1759" in the town of Ivanie where Frank and his followers were living:

"The comet resembles a scythe aimed at humanity, a naked glistening blade that might slice off millions of heads at any moment, and not only the ones on the craned necks in Ivanie, but also city dwellers’ heads, Lwów heads, Kraków heads—even royal heads. There is no doubt it is a sign of the end of the world, a harbinger of angels rolling up the whole show like a rug." (p. 492 [counting backwards]). 
 

I'm Probably Wrong but...

One of my impressions of the novel is very uncomfortable. I think the subtext is that Judaism is somehow incorrect or misguided. Here's one example: the pages count down: the first page is numbered 965 and the last page number is 1. Purportedly this is because the author's view is that Hebrew books are written backwards. Of course, Hebrew is written from right to left and Hebrew books have the spine to the right: this is simply different from books written in the Roman alphabet. Making the pages of a Polish book (or English translation) go “backwards” seems to me meant to show that Hebrew is somehow wrong. 

In the afterward, the author's explanation is this: "The alternative numbering of the pages in this book is a nod to books written in Hebrew, as well as a reminder that every order, every system, is simply a matter of what you’ve gotten used to." (p. 5 [counting backwards from 965]).

Throughout this long-winded and rambling book, I felt that the underlying attitude was that the Jews and their religion were aberrant. This is despite many comparisons of Jews and non-Jews as being similar in both wealth and poverty; for example: "On the street, women in tattered rags gather dung and wood shavings for fuel. It would be hard to say, based on their rags, whether this is a Jewish poverty, or Eastern Orthodox, or Catholic. Poverty is nondenominational and has no national identity. (p. 954 [counting backwards]). 

A particular area that worries me is that many passages in the novel dwell at length on the blood libel, the story that Jews require the blood of Christian children for their rituals. As you may know, throughout history, this story was repeated often as a way to ignite violence against Jews, or to make excuses for killing Jewish leaders or expelling Jewish communities from their homes. Repeatedly, the author introduces the "proof" that the Jews were guilty of this crime, though modern scholars of all persuasions see it as an excuse for persecution, without foundation, and without documented cases. Though the "proofs" are always stated by characters in the book, the net result is distasteful and harmful, as the author must have known. 

The official view of the church about a particular such event in the town of Å»ytomierz was ignored by the Polish priests and by the people. And it's less powerful in the context of the book than the descriptions of claimed Jewish crime. Officially, the church view, as given in the text, is that "the Holy Office, after a thorough examination of the question of the accusations of the use of Christian blood in Å»ytomierz and the alleged ritual murder, asserts that the same are utterly without foundation. And that all further accusations of this kind are to be dismissed, as the letting of Christian blood has no basis in the Jewish religion, nor in the Jewish tradition." (p. 270 [counting down]).

So difficult! What reviewers said:

The Guardian reviewer says: 

"The reader’s task is to deduce a higher order out of the patchwork of scenes and fragments. It does require patience – and I’m not sure that I would recommend newcomers to Tokarczuk’s work start here. But The Books of Jacob, which is so demanding and yet has so much to say about the issues that rack our times, will be a landmark in the life of any reader with the appetite to tackle it." (source)

The New York Times reviewer has many admiring paragraphs about the novel; but in conclusion says:

"Yet the characters remain at a distance. ‘The Books of Jacob’ rarely touches the emotions. No page, for me, turned itself. A word from 'Finnegans Wake' came to mind: thunderslog
 
"I don’t mean to dissuade. As with certain operas, I’m glad to have had the experience — and equally glad that it’s over." (source)

The Washington Post reviewer says:

"In terms of its scope and ambition, 'The Books of Jacob' is beyond anything else I’ve ever read. ...What can explain the willingness of people to dedicate their lives, their fortunes, their souls to leaders who lead them astray? Tokarczuk lets the branching narratives of this novel respond to that perennial conundrum. 'The truth is like a gnarled tree,' she writes, 'made up of many layers that are twisted all around each other.' In that sense, 'The Books of Jacob' is a whole forest of such trees — haunting and irresistible." (source)

And a bookish character in The Books of Jacob says:

“'Literature is a particular type of knowledge, it is'—he sought the right words, and suddenly a phrase came ready to his lips—'the perfection of imprecise forms.'” (pp. 15-14 [counting backwards]). 

Review © 2023 mae sander.