Aside: Palermitan Pastry in History

In 1686, Francesco Procopio de Coltelli of Palermo, Sicily, founded Le Procope, now the longest-lived cafe/restaurant in Paris. This is considered evidence that the Sicilians, especially the Palermitans, were recognized at that time as experts in sweets, coffee, and gelato. Coffee was just beginning its reign throughout Europe: it had recently come from the East, via the Arabs who were in contact with Ethiopia where the coffee plant had its origin. Now delicious, very strong small cups of espresso are one of the pleasures of visiting the island.

Many delicious desserts are native to Palermo -- I tasted only a very small number of them. Almond paste, jam and jelly, chocolate and vanilla creams, and other delicious substances fill the breakfast pastries. Tartes, cannolis (photo above), semi-freddo (an ice-cream cake, photo below), ice cream-filled brioches, marzipan shaped like fruit or toys, and many other specialties are on offer in Palermo's cafes and dessert shops. Small wineries and liqueur makers produce lemon and almond liqueur, Marsala (from not far away) and other sweet after-dinner alcohols.

The book Bitter Almonds: Recollections and recipes from a Sicilian girlhood, by Mary Taylor Simeti and Maria Grammatico documents the old ways with almond paste made by nuns. The hardships and mistreatment suffered by Maria Grammatico while she lived and learned in the convent make it a very modern story. The ancient tradition of pastry-making and other ways that nuns were exploited make it an old story as well. While Palermitans ate and made such confections, this book documents the shop in Erice where I have been on other trips.