Have I (we?) been gullible about the benefits of slow food? Here's an answer to some of the advocates of free-range pigs: "Free-Range Trichinosis" by JAMES E. McWILLIAMS in today's NYT. He says: "The natural dangers that motivated farmers to bring animals into tightly controlled settings in the first place haven’t gone away." And he cites a study showing increased pathogens in free-range pigs, including the parasite trichina -- that's the one that made us fully cook our pork roasts in the past. The one we thought was gone forever. Well, eternal vigilance is the price of everything, I guess.
To produce pork that’s safe and tasty might mean taking greater control of the animal instead of letting it roam partly free.